The Kashmiri population in an ethno-linguistic group that can be compared with an Indo-Greek with their racial structure of the Kashmiris. Later cheaper imitations of these shawls were woven in England and France, thereby ruining the market for the original handwork of Kashmir. Only the needle workers were able to salvage something by turning to the embroidery of coverlets, tablecloths and other domestic items for the home and tourist market. You can quiet easily identify one from the other on the reverse of the carpet. Business listings of Fabric, Flocked Fabrics manufacturers, suppliers and exporters in Srinagar, Jammu & Kashmir along with their contact details & address. Also, variations in language are observed as you move in various areas of Kashmir, i.e. Shahtoosh, the legendary ring shawl is incredible for its lightness, softness and warmth. The wearing of genuine Kashmir shawls and their European replicas was highly fashionable; the colourful patterned borders of these shawls set off the plain textures of the classically inspired garments then in vogue. Its natural color is mousy brown, and it is, at the most, sparsely embroidered. A double-knotted carpet has a pile that bends when you brush it one way with your hand, and stands upright when it is brushed in other direction. Even today Kashmir makes a vast range of shawls like the kani shawl woven in kanihama, which is only a shadow of what was woven earlier, the double colored pashmina, dhussa, the mens long shawls with its woven border, and the very fine amli or embroidered shawls. Thus, when it comes to Thus, when it comes to In terms of cultural relevance, this style of embroidery is considered to be one of the leading cottage industries in Kashmir. Whilst shawls are embroidered with a needle, much of the embroidery done in the Kashmir valley is ari work. Exports created a fashion market in Europe and very soon stimulated competition from there. ShawlsThe origins and development of the Kashmir Shawl owe to Kashmirs location, cut off as it is by the Pir Panjal range and to its position at the crossroads of some of Asias great Trade Routes. Costumes of Jammu and Kashmir are well known for their embroidery and intricate designs, which reflects the richness of the culture and landscape of the region. The major dance form is the “Roaf” performed by women, who make aesthetic movements while they sing. NamdasFar less expensive are these colorful floor coverings made from woolen and cotton fiber, manually pressed into shape. It is available by the length occasionally as ready to wear garments. It was in the 18th century that to cope with the growing demand for kani shawls, embroidered shawls known as amli, which imitated the woven technique, were introduced. Chain Stitch and Crewel FurnishingsBecause of the high quality of embroidery done on wall hangings and rugs, Kashmir is in great demand all over the world. High in the plateau of Tibet and the eastern part of Ladakh, at an altitude of above 5,000 meters, roam Pantholops Hodgosoni or Tibetan antelope. Therefore, a carpet with a pure silk pile may be referred to as 80% silk carpet. Till today, most designs, are distinctly Persian with local variations. In the case of pure shahtoosh too, there are many qualities-the yarn can be spun so skillfully as to resemble a strand of silk. The traditional folklore of Kashmir is the Chakkirwhich is sung by a chorus of singers led by the lead singer. Phulkaris, similar in composition and technique to those of Punjab, were made in Jammu, as were rumals, in the Chamba style. Kashmiri embroidery, popularly known as Kashida,along with the Kashmiri carpet industry, is one of the biggest commercial crafts of India. The fineness of the yarn lends itself particularly well to the weaves known as chinon and crepe de chine, in addition to the universally recognized silk weave. They vary in artistry and the choices of colors, and it is not difficult to tell a mediocre piece from an excellent one. The native of Kashmiri people lives in Pakistan, Upper Punjab and Potohar where they organize a group and live together. PheransThis garment, somewhere between a coat and a cloak, is eminently suited to the Kashmiri way of life. Be the first to rate this product. Varnish, which is applied to the finished product, imparts a high gloss and smoothness, which increases with every coat. The first mention of an Indian woollen shawl being worn in Europe is in one of Lawrence Sternes Letters to Eliza (1767). Even today intricate patterns are woven using this technique in the village of Kanihama, which lies on the road to Gulmarg. The embroiders, originally, were called rafugars or darners. Motifs, usually abstract designs or stylized paisleys and flowers are worked in one or two, occasionally three colors, all subdued. In fact, one of the methods to test whether a shawl is an original Kashmir kani is to check from its back whether it has been woven in separate pieces or is in a single piece. This fleece grows during the harsh and extremely cold winter, underneath the goats outer hair and is shed at the beginning of summer. It is now and icon of fashion motifs, read on here to see why. Kashmir has been famous for kani shawls for many centuries. The master weaver and his helper use written instructions known as talim to weave the shawls. It is also Chain stitch done on White background, but here the motifs, mainly stylish flowers, do not cover the entire surface, and the background is not embroidered upon. Carpets are said to have originated from the oases and villages of Central Asia . When the dealer specifies the percentage of each yarn used, he is taking into account the yarn used for the base too. These hand felted carpets from Kashmir are a heirloom tradition of 500 yrs. Cashmere wool. The weaving of kani loom-woven pashmina shawls has been revived at the ancient weaving centre of Basohli in Jammu Province, but nearly all the Kashmir shawls made today are patterned by embroidery rather than by weaving. Comes with matching pants but no stole. The right side of it cannot be easily distinguished from the wrong side. Handicrafts form a prominent section of the multifarious and appealing range of crafts in Rajasthan, the state that is the epitome of Indian culture, tradition, royalty. Chain stitch or crewel work is essentially done by hook or ari no matter what the fabric of cloth is, it may be wool, cotton or silk but the crewel work on the white cotton cloth is much in demand in the rest of the world. Zain-Ul-Abidin (1420-70), the ruler of Kashmir who was reputed to have brought weavers from Turkestan to the valley, is believed to have laid the foundation of the Kashmir Shawl Industry. The ari work is used to decorate clothing, wall hangings, rugs, cushion covers and whole rolls of furnishing fabric, with varying complexity of design. Tweed on the other hand is woven in Kashmir with pure wool. Business Directory of Indian Suppliers Manufacturers and Products from India. Pashmina wool They are woven on a fame-loom using countless needles called tooji, which have woolen thread colors attached to them. The carpet weaving became a gift of … The chorten commemorative building, vajra, thunderbolt, and the swastika are the common motifs. This is done either in broad panels or either side of the breadth of a shawl, or covering the entire surface of a stole. religious articles and product discounts. Its position from the trade routes of Tibet and from Turkestan gave it virtually exclusive use of the raw materials needed for shawls and roads west to Afghanistan and Persia and south to India gave it access to markets for its textile products. Wool woven in Kashmir is raffal and is 100% pure. And while on the subject of colors, it should be kept in mind that although the colors of Kashmiri carpets are more subtle and muted than elsewhere in the country, only chemical dyes are used-vegetable dyes have not been available now for about hundred years. Arabic format is adopted as a writing script. Kashmir is itself connected to the east by a series of high passes to Ladakh. pronunciation, accent and sometimes meanings vary from Region to Region. Pashmina Fabric. Its motifs are well-known flower design finely worked in concentric rings of chain stitch. There are two grades of pashmina. One proof of it is the dorukha, double sided shawl. All the embroidery is executed on white cotton fabric, pre-shrunk by the manufacturers. Unlike woolen or Pashmina shawls, Shahtoosh is seldom dyed-that would be rather like dyeing gold! Basically, the more knots per square inch, the greater its value and durability. People in Ladakh perform their own traditional … Gold is used on most objects, either as the only color, or as the highlight for certain motifs, and besides the finish of the product, it is the quality of the gold used which determines the price. Occasionally, carpets are made on a cotton base, mainly of woolen pile with silk yarn used as highlights on certain motifs. Chain stitch, be it in wool, silk or cotton, is done by hook rather than any needle. By 1850 and 1860, the export of shawls to Europe increased many folds, but this expansion was a prelude to the sudden collapse of the industry. Mens pherans are always made of tweed or coarse wool; womens pherans, somewhat more stylized, are most commonly made of raffel, with designs of ari or hook embroidery at the throat, cuffs and edges. The finest variety of all, however, as the aksi reflection, in which the design is produced on one side by splitting the warp threads into half, leaving the other side plain or embroidered with another pattern. Although, Kashmiri people live in different parts of India they are mainly gathered in the Valley of Kashmir, Doda, Kishtwar and Ramban thasils of J… Kashmirs relative geographical isolation ensured that a concentration of skilled workers could be built up and maintained. The use of a Geographical … Every product is 100% hand-spun, Handwoven Luxurious product using centuries old traditional processes(woven on Traditional looms NOT on Hand-loom). Kashmir shawls are also known as kani shawls and jamawars. Cl.8: BO5D 1/00, DO4H, DO6L 3/00, DO6L 1/06, DO6L 1/14, DO6L 1/00, DO6P, B65H, F26B 13/00, DO1B 3/00, DO1B 5/00 Kashmir, the paradise on earth is known all over the With government help encouraging a more scientific breeding policy, yields are improving, and the nomadic owners of the goats are also receiving a much better price for the pashmina, which should further improve production. In the ancient period all the imperial kings and rulers had given patronage to art and architecture. Send as free … The classical Kashmir shawl was woven out of Pashmina wool, whose main source was the fleece of a central Asian species of mountain goat, the Capra Hicus. The all-over patterns worked with delicate fill-in stitches are produced even today and can stand well against the finest products of the world. 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